An Update from Awassa

It is July 4th and we are hanging out with our dear friends Herb and Danielle along with their boys Miles and Daniel.  This is the first that we have seen them since returning from the trip.  Last night, we thoroughly enjoyed sharing memories with them.  The last couple of months have left little time to even think about our RTW adventure let alone reflect upon what it meant to us as individuals and a family.  In fact, the monthly wire transfer to Hagirso for the our Ethiopian children's school, food and shelter has become too routine.  It is amazing how life just sucks you back in and in a moment one becomes absorbed in their own daily activities and anxieties.  We hope that this weekend with friends acts as a reminder to us about just what is most important in life. 

With that said, below are some recent pictures of Endris, Shemelese and Yenu as they continue to progress with their eduction and adapt to life in Awassa.  We miss them and remain very proud of all that they have accomplished in the six short months since we left Ethiopia.  Wow, six months since we were in Mabret's Village.  Fingers crossed that the near future allows us to return and hug these 3 awesome children. 

News From Awassa

We have been getting positive news from Awassa as Endris, Shemelese and Yenu seem to be adjusting well to their new routine. They are working daily with the tutor in preparation for school beginning on February 13th.  

Their school uniforms have arrived and the kids look smart and handsome/beautiful in them. 

So far so good...

On The Move Again

Wednesday January 15th began with a 5:30am wake-up call to begin our journey from Awassa to Addis.  We will board a 12:05am flight bound for Delhi.  At 6am, we jumped into 2 tuck tucks - one for the backpacks with Roman and Mabret sitting atop the bags and one for Kathy, Bob and Katie. The 6:30am bus departed on time for the 6 hour ride to Addis.  

After arriving in Addis just before 1pm, we decided to check out the Sheraton Hotel in Addis as we have heard many good things about it.  As with most places in Ethiopia, the staff was warm and welcoming.  The lobby of the hotel and the grounds are gorgeous.  We enjoyed some lunch and a bit of chill time before heading to the home of Roman and Mabret's friend Neil who we met in Awassa for dinner.

Mabret and Roman complimented their meals with an age old Ethiopian dish - waffles and ice cream.

   

Next stop, a play date and dinner.  It was a real treat to fill our stomachs with home-cooked food before a 6 hour overnight flight.  Thanks to three generations of the Pastiaux-Murphy for hosting us. 

A short cab ride to the airport and a long line to check our bags with Ethiopian Airlines.  Goodbye for now, Ethiopia. 

Flight ET 688 took off at 1am in Ethiopia and landed just after 9am in Dehli, India.  We are now 10 and 1/2 hours ahead of those of you following along at home. 

Welcome to India.

After a power nap and showers, we ventured out to have dinner and explore the city a bit. 

We will circle back to Dehli when we depart India so today was just a sample.  Delhi is the capital of India, its third largest city, and the industrial hub of northern India.  In addition to being the government center, Delhi is the second most widely used entry point into the country.  In plain terms, it is crazy crowded here.

While the air has a constant gray fog like tint from dust, Delhi is actually one of the greenest cities in the world with a green cover of almost 20%.  As a result of a push to clean up the air in Delhi, the entire public transportation system runs on environment friendly Compressed Natural Gas.

Tomorrow we leave for Agra which is home to the Taj Mahal.  To all of Bob's degenerate friends who still believe that the Taj Mahal is in Atlantic City (you know who you are), we will post pictures to prove you incorrect.  

The RTW Adventure Family is happy to be on the move again. 

Until tomorrow...

Peace Out.

Goodbye For Now

When this adventure began to take shape, we tried to keep our expectations realistic and our goals attainable.  One of the objectives we did discuss was attempting to spend enough time in Ethiopia, and while there live, shop and meander among the local people, that Roman and Mabret would always feel comfortable returning here.  As we journeyed via foot, tuck tuck, bus and taxi from Awassa to Addis, we watched the ease with which the boys moved and feel confident that our mission was accomplished.  

We departed Ethiopia with countless memories and two sons who matured before our eyes as we moved back and forth from Awassa to Dongora Morocho.  The image of walking with Mabret as he moved toward his Ethiopian family and friends who were assembled and awaiting his return is one that will remain frozen in time and stay with us forever.  

While we always planned to bring food and supplies to the village, we had no gameplan beyond those general ideas.  As we came to know Endris, Shemelese and Yenu, they quickly worked their way into our hearts and lives.  Each has obvious physical similarities to Mabret and as we got to know and love them each of their personalities reminded us of Mabret.  

As you know from reading this blog, we quickly found ourselves working to relocate our three Ethiopian kids to Awassa and enroll them in school.  As we spent our last few hours with them, we filled with pride from the sheer bravery they have displayed. 

Endris has naturally taken on the role of leader and quickly tosses a look or word in Sidamo should Shemelese or Yenu require a reminder about the rules governing their new life in Awassa.  Endris shows his emotions more than the other kids, including Mabret.  He was emotional as we reminded them for the final time (for now) that the goal of this move is education first, second and third.  While they should work with Hagirso to learn about and enjoy Awassa, their focus is Amharic and English.  The tears in Endris' eyes told the story as they waved goodbye from their new living room window.

Shemelese always has a mischievous smile close to the surface and will likely be the leader as the kids explore Awassa.  When we walked to the apartment after purchasing some last minute items from the market, Shemelese led the way and we suspect that he has already ventured out on "secret missions".  

Simply put, Yenu is Mabret without the Y chromosome.  

Goodbye for now, Endris, Shemelese and Yenu.  Make us proud!

Welcome Home

It was without much fanfare that three kids from the rural village of Chucko left the only home they have ever know and took off for the big city of Awassa. Thankfully it was without any tears or obvious sadness that they entered the car. Many family members and most neighbors came out to wish them Bon Voyage and off they went.

Following another hard hour and a half drive in the van, we arrived at the kids' new home. The nanny, Zenebech, meet us at the apartment with a fantastic home cooked traditional Ethiopian meal of Shero, beef Doro Wat and Injera. After lunch we showed the kids around, gave them a lesson on using the front door keys, using the lights switches, and shutting the windows if they leave. We then left them alone with the Nanny, 50 birr, some books and a deck of cards.

      The boys lead the way. Welcome home!

       The Nanny

Until tomorrow morning when we get them for school uniform shopping, let's keep our fingers crossed and hope everyone is safe and happy.

Peace

Setting Up House

Please someone show me to the closest Bed, Bath & Beyond!

Shopping for an entire household in two days is a complex, perplexing and tiring task. I am constantly reminding myself that we only need enough the get them started.  Everything for the bedrooms, living rooms and kitchen. The list includes a table and chairs, mattresses, sheets, blankets, pillows, rugs, towels, all cleaning supplies for the home and laundry. Everything to start a kitchen from a small cook top to pots and utensils. Don't forget all the necessary pantry items needed to cook food that I have know idea what is needed or how to make.  Shiro, Dor Wat, Injera ...anyone ever tried those recipes.

The shopping is done at the Awassa open market. It is an amazing maze of vendors set up on one long street in town and in numerous little shops along that street.  Most shops are crammed floor to ceiling with all types of food, house hold supplies, shoes, clothes....everything and anything you could think of. Everything at your fingertips that is, if you know where to look and how to speak Amharic. 

Don't  forget about the Ethiopian art of negotiating every piece and every price. If we don't like the price at one location we move on to the next shop and then next and then the next. It could go on for hours. Eventually someone surrenders (usually me).

      Our 5 kilos of pasta, 4 kilos of sugar and 5 kilos of flour all in plastic bags and don't forget the laundry detergent and soap bars.

It was fun, everything is moved in (almost) and we are ready to head to the village tomorrow morning to pick up Endress, Shimelese and Yenu. We are excited that their next adventure is about to begin!

 

Peace out.

Roman Rules the Roost

As I watch Roman roam about the hotel both inside and out, I see he is frequently stopped by all types of hotel employees. With each he spends a few minutes chatting. I can tell from the body language he does not always understand everything that is being said (due to accents or limited English) but both leave the greeting smiling. As I walk around I am often asked by the staff "Where is Roman?"

When we order lunch or a snack and Roman is not at the table when the food arrives, the waiter will ask "where is Roman?" He or she will then march over to the ping pong tables or pool and gently take him by the arm and lead him back to the lunch table. I find this, although surprising at first, a much more effective method of getting Roman to the table than any I have tried. Each server also comments on the very small amount of food Roman eats and seems genuinely disappointed. Roman then feels badly and tries another bite or two.

When several waiters heard Roman was not feeling well, each supplied us with their homemade simple solutions. Extra lime squeezed into a Sprite was Roman's favorite despite the fact he didn't have an upset stomach.

Two days ago Roman was determined to find, cultivate and chew on some sugar cane. I gently tried to say I'm not sure there is sugar cane on the hotel grounds and if so they may not want you destroying it.  Nonetheless, he insisted I follow him and he did in fact find some. The picture in my head of a shirtless Roman carrying around a 5 foot stick of sugar cane is priceless. He then had to figure out what to do with it. A combination of You Tube videos and staff support lead Roman to the kitchen where he got 'the lady with a big knife' to cut the branch down to manageable sizes and slice it open.  Roman was quite pleased. He then shared these pieces with Mabret and several other children. When the sugar cane still wasn't easy to eat, he went back to the kitchen so ALL the outer bark could be hacked off with the big knife. Success and good chewing.

During the busy times at the hotel; weekends, the feast of St. Gabriel and Ethiopian Christmas - Roman is once again an object of other guests' giggles and if the guests are brave, requests for photos with the crazy blond haired kid. The photos are not simple quick shots. Roman has to be positioned between the ladies, arms around him and his arms then positioned around them. The last photo is always of the brave hotel guest rubbing Roman's hair.

This is not to say Mabret is not getting attention or having fun but he is by nature quieter and more reserved. He also does not so obviously stand out here among the many other children running around the hotel.

The entire staff here at the Haile Hotel & Resort are quite kind and charming. We know many by name or nick names we have constructed in order to make it easier for us. Among the most memorable are D&G (his name does start with 'D' and contain a 'g' but he also always wears a D&G belt buckle) Fantastic, Antenea, Solomon and Roman (female). They greet us everyday with big smiles and try to make our stay comfortable. We in return try to make their life more comfortable by tipping closer to the American manner (versus the Ethiopian or European manner). They are shy about it but no doubt grateful. 

Both boys can be relatively independent here. The entire staff is always looking out for all the children and guests. Very often you will see a 2 year old stumbling around or too close to the stairs and a staff member will either pick him up or take him by the hand and walk around with him until a parent comes looking. One of my most thankful memories was one day after coming back from an outing I desperately wanted a shower to get the dust off. I was however playing ping pong with Roman and he didn't want to stop. A recreation staff member must have overheard Roman's and my conversation because he came straight over took my paddle and said "I will play with him!" So kind.

Roman wanted Macaroni n Cheese so we went to the chef told her how to make it.....and she did! 

He is a happy boy.

Lazy Days and Rasta Ways

      Wondo Genet Hot Springs

Surprisingly, the past couple of days are testing our patience. I relish the days of site seeing and moving locations every other day. We have been stationed at the Haile Resort in Awassa for 13 days and we feel stagnant. 

 

Yes, we have made numerous trips to Mabret's family village, brought the three kids to Awassa for a visit, found a suitable school and rented a house for them. However, for the past couple of days (minus  the trip to the clinic with Roman and a couple hours of school work a day)  we have become bums.

It is mostly because Ethiopian Christmas was yesterday January 7th and I felt Hagirso (translator/guide)  needed to spend some quiet time around the holiday with his family.  Independently, we have mastered the Tuk-Tuk or Ethiopian Baja as well as the Ethiopian art of price negotiation. The kids are now experts at the 'walk away' if they feel the price is too high.  Thus we have seen most of Awassa. Visited most other local hotels and restaurants. Rode a boat, ate fresh caught fish right off the lake (very deeply fried of course), played soccer and TONS of ping pong. 

We still have some work here to do here in Awassa and we won't be ready to leave until our Ethiopian family is set up and in a good groove. But we need activity.  All those who thought living in a hotel sounds perfect with drinks at your request and room service.... Think twice.  It never feels like a home.  

 

Thankfully today we took a day trip to Shashemene a Rastafarian community 25 K from Awassa. We visited Banana Art Gallery and Museum, a Rastafarian Church and the Hot Springs at Wondo Genet.

It was all great fun!

The Banana Art Gallery is all work by Ras Hailu Tefari (Bandi) an accomplished artist who works primarily with banana leaves. The leaves remain natural without dye or coloration to the leaves. The texture and detail are quite amazing .

Next stop was "His Imperial Majasty Haile Selassie I Moral Theocratical  Churchical Order of Ryahbinghi Reign (Nyahbinghi Yabernacle Shashamane) Rastafarian Church. After instructing Katie and I to cover our heads and Katie to put on a makeshift skirt we were permitted entry and given an enthusiastic tour. The tour consisted of a brief history of the Rastafarian culture, religion and their God, Haile Salassie I, the Emperor of Ethiopia from 1930 to 1974.  It was enlightening. How and why Haile Salassie become their God is interesting. When Emperor Salassie visited Jamacia they were in the middle of a drought. Suddenly the rains returned and Jamacians were convinced that was a sign. They have been traveling to Ethiopia to pay homage ever since that moment. In 1963, Emperor Salassie granted some land to the Jamacians in Shashemene, Ethiopia. Today there are anywhere from a couple hundred to one thousand members of this community. They are committed and proud. 

What I found most interesting, was the proud African and black spirit. In Jamaica, Marcus Garvey (Rastafarian leader) saw the 1930 coronation of Haile Salassie I as the fulfillment of the acient biblical prophecy that "Kings will come out of Africa".  Thus encouraging all blacks to go back to Africa. We also learned the meaning behind the growing of dread locks. Just like Solomon in the bible or a lion, they sympolize strength and the triumph of good over evil! The Rastafarian flag is a lion with a crown and sword both with a cross on top. The song, Iron Zion Lion by Bob Marley is a tribute to Haile Salassie.

The final stop was the hot springs at Wondo Genet located southwest of Shashemene surrounded by Ethiopian forests and the Forsetry College of Awassa University.  This is a resort town, the primary draw being the hot springs. The cost is 25 birr per person entrance fee for the use of the swimming pool. Instructions were given to shower (soap provided) under the hot spring water prior to entering the pools. The boys enjoyed the very hot shower and then headed to the pool with Hagirso. They immediately entered the larger pool, but I could tell, from camera range, that they were not thrilled.  Upon closer inspection the pool ( swimming pool size and shape, water supplied from the hot springs)  was not clean to their standards. We went over to the smaller shallower pools and they enjoyed a couple of minutes of photo ops and the warm water.  Then, they were hungry.

Off to lunch at Wondo Genet Resort for a typical Ethiopia lunch. Dor Wat for Mabret, plain pasta for Roman, chicken or fish for Katie and I.  Afterward we explored the grounds, found a playground where the only mishap was the tipping over of the roundabout.  We were also able to tour the living, dining room and bedroom of Haile Salassie. He built, owned and stayed at this location for part of every year while in Ethiopia. 

And then as we say...home again home again jig giddy jig and both boys fell asleep on the bumpy ride back to Awassa.

Best of Ethiopia

Favorite place to stay

Bob: Aregesh Lodge

Kathy: Aregesh Lodge 

Roman:  Haile Resort

Mabret: Haile resort and hotel

Katie: Haile Resort 

Favorite Activity

Bob: playing baseball with Endriss Roman & Mabret

Kathy: drawing with kids in the village

Roman: ping pong @ Haile resort 

Mabret: playing Tennis @ Haile

Katie: Boat ride on Lake Awassa and Traditional Ethiopian dancing

Best Memory 

Bob: Arriving at Mabret's village

Kathy: hugging and kissing Grandma Kayet

Roman: Discovering the cows in the tukel. (Mabret's family home)

Mabret: playing soccer with my Brothers

Katie: first day @ Mabret's village and seeing the reaction between the family and the boys

Favorite Food

Bob: Tegabino & injera

Kathy: Chicken club sandwich at Lewi Resort 

Roman: Mango, Avacado, Pineapple drink (especially the Avacado)

Mabret: tradional Ethiopia Shiro

Katie: tilapia at Lewi Resort 

Clinic Visit

Thursday January 2, 2014 6:00am, Bob leaves for the US. 

One hour later Roman wakes up with a sore throat. Over the next four days his sore throat remains constant and a slight fever and headache comes and goes. The children's Motrin I brought with us gives him some relief and reduces the fever but only temporarily. On day four, I decide that a mother's worry must be abated (we ARE in Sub-Saharian Africia)! 

Hagirso (our translator and guide) agrees to accompany us to the clinic. We discussed briefly if it would be safe to do so and he calmly stated we could talk with the Physician and decide from there.  All my fears (crowed clinic with more germs floating around then we already had, unsterilized needles and long waits) were quickly proven wrong.  Hagirso brought us to a clinic on the edge of the city near the medical university.

Yanet Internal Medicine Specialty Higher Clinic is a clean, bright place with marble tile floors, landscaping, nice waiting area and NO wait. It took only three minutes to check Roman in, be seen by the nurse, weighed, measured and temperature taken. We were then immediately brought in the see the Doctor.  

Dr. Zinaye was kind, thorough and spoke excellent English. After an exam and consult, he ordered a blood test just to rule out malaria and/or determine the cause of the sore throat.  The lab was one door over and again NO wait. The lab technician was professional and all needles were in sealed and sterilized original manufacturing packages.  All this for only 100 Birr (30 for the physican and 70 for the lab test). Total $5.25 USD. While this is a very small amount for a doctor visit for us, I'm told it is a lot for the average Ethiopian. Even if they can pay to see the doctor the medicine is most likely too expensive.  

Forty minutes later the lab tests were complete. No parasites, no malaria. The Doctor advised it was a bacterial infection causing the sore throat and prescribed Augmentin. The doctor kindly gave me the blood test results so I could email them to my sister, Judy, for verification before beginning the medication. Cost 239  birr - about $10 USD

Yes the date and age is incorrect but if you come to Ethiopia you too can you back to 2006! 

The Ethiopian calender is different and the age is a typo.

We are happy to report Roman is feeling much much better and is back at the Ping pong table and in the pool.

Safe and healthy in Ethiopia!

House Hunters Awassa

     As you may know, the Levant's have taken on the challenge of supporting three wonderful kids' Ethiopian schooling.  This endeavor includes relocating them, feeding and caring for them, and setting up a HOME. This will be a fun challenge!

   It was a simple decision to start the apartment search at a large government built condo/apt complex very close to the school. The entire complex is only a ten minute walk to the school, thus making clear the main focus of all activities should be school work.  The complex consists of at least 30 buildings, each four stories high containing six apartments on each floor. The set up of each is basically the same but varying from one to three bedrooms. The final decision on which unit would come down to which was finished.

      The goverment of Awassa started building these approximately two years ago and most are not yet complete. The grounds still contain a lot of construction rubble and the roads not even started. Each unit we looked at was purchased directly from the goverment and would then be rented out by the owner. The interior finishes were complete based on the individual owners' preferences.

  Ground or first floor units are most desirable and thus slightly more costly, however as we were doing the moving in ourselves and I really didn't like the idea of carrying three mattresses, etc up four flights of stairs. (No elevators of course)

    The unit viewing process however came with its own challenges. At each different unit, the owner or the keys had to be located. Unfortunately, we were only able to view some units through the windows as the key could not be found. This is despite many men making attempts by calling out to one another across the complex. Then one man would call 'so and so' on the phone, who would then run around to the coffee shop to see if he could find the owner or keys or help in some other way. Many keys were found using this method and we successfully narrowed it down to two units each with two bedrooms, tile floors and working electricity.

  Thus began, what I'll call the Ethiopian 'Come back'. 'Come back' in  20 minutes and we will have the place cleaned up.  20 minutes later we come back and nothing was done.  'Come back' tomorrow morning and it will be finished and cleaned up. The next morning we get there and it is not clean or complete. 'Come back' in 10 minutes. While having coffee, waiting the requested ten minutes, a "Broker" (turns out the men helping to find keys are "Brokers" and will expect a small payment upon the signing of a lease), finds us at the coffee shop and says he has another better unit for the same price on a ground floor.  

 

  We go over to see it and it is nice. However, it is also not quite complete.  What began was three days of 'Come Back' torture. Basically, I refused to sign a lease with a leaking toilet, leaking kitchen faucet and kitchen plumbing, and kept asking them to fix it. The right thing to do but not typical. The typical renter in this area may not care that the tiles will definitely crack, water will seep everywhere and they would have to pay for the damage. The owner, a woman from Adddis who kept saying she was leaving immediately to go back to Addis, seemed astonished that the leaks would be a problem and kept telling me they did not need to be fixed.  Finally she agreed to fix them right away and told us to 'come back' first thing in the morning.

 

  On the third day of 'Come Back' torture, after about four trips back to see if the leaks were fixed, I gave up and was ready to walk away. Hagriso (our translator and man of much patience) looked hesitate to do so. Apparently they had already hooked up the electricity and he was pleased with the manner it was to be billed in the future. I however, felt lied too and tired. Clearly the owner had not hired a plumber to fix the leaks nor did she really have to go back to Adidis immediately. A solution had to be found. I channeled my inner negotiator and figured out how much it would cost to hire a plumber on our own to fix it.  The approximate cost for a plumber would be....

500 Birr---- all this effort for $26!!! 

We then requested a 500 Birr deduction on the first month's rent. 

One hour later, after more Ethiopian negotiating in Amharic ....I said enough, "Does she agree or not?"

       Intense negotiations

She did. The lease was signed. Money exchanged and the Levant's are the proud renters of a two bedroom apartment in Awassa!

      "Broker" and landlord trying to fix the toilet

     Awassa apartment living room

A Brief Interruption

Thursday January 2 brought a 5:30am wake-up call for Dad and a 6am departure for what will prove to be the most difficult part of this RTW adventure for Dad as he will be away from the family for just over a week, but a time for us all to reflect upon how fortunate we are to spend this uninterrupted time together. 

While most of our posts are jointly constructed, from the photos to the thoughts that we share, this post is being written by Bob.   

I am writing the first portion of this post from Egypt Air flight 985 and it is currently 8:07pm on Friday January 3rd in Awassa, Ethiopia.  I have been on the road for just over 38 hours as I type and I still have more than 3 hours until landing at JFK Airport.  From there, I will find my way to the LIRR to Penn Station and a train to Philly.  With a little luck, I hope to arrive in Philly by 9pm EST.

My journey began with a run from the hotel to the main traffic strip in search of a badjadj or tjoektjoek (pronounced "tuck tuck"), a small 3 wheel taxi, with the first destination being the bus station to catch the 6:30am  Shalom Bus to Addis Ababa.  After flagging down the only taxi in sight, a raggedy looking taxi indeed, I told the driver my destination and informed him that we needed to hurry as it was already 6:19am.  We traveled approximately 3 blocks before the taxi broke down.  The second sprint of the morning followed and I arrived at the bus just before departure.

The bus was actually very pleasant and the price was right at 140 birr or $7.  The ride was more comfortable than my memories of taking Greyhound Buses from D.C. to Philly during law school.  We arrived in Addis around 12:30pm and I headed for the lobby of the Hilton so I would be able to access wifi and work for the next 12 to 14 hours until heading to the airport for a 4:15am flight to Cairo.  

I am returning to take the depositions of several defendants in a case in which we have invested an extraordinary amount of time and resources.  The case is also very personal to me as I believe that a gross injustice took place, and with much effort from the entire firm, we have been able to help the client restore some order to his life.  However, the job is not finished yet and we have a responsibility to make sure that we do not take our collective foot off the pedal.

As much as I dreaded leaving Kathy, Mabret, Roman and Katie, we openly discussed the options and all agreed that Dad needs to briefly return to the States.  We included the boys in the discussion as they initially did not feel good about Dad leaving because they envisioned this total family journey to be uninterrupted.  We explained to the boys our duty to the client and also our responsibility to our team at the office.  Ray, Ed and Marianne have done an incredible job of running the firm while we experience this once in a lifetime adventure.  In addition, they have done it with no complaints and total love and support for us.  However, Dad is the most experienced attorney on the team to take depositions in this type of case.  We further spoke with Roman and Mabret about Dad's responsibility to Ray, Ed and Marianne to make certain that all the hard work that they have done on this case is recognized by maximizing the effect of the depositions. 

Before starting on the real work, the first order of business after arriving at the Hilton in Addis was to fact check some items in our "Education In The Village" post.  I did this via email with Kathy.  After finalizing the entry, I began to get my head into the case.  For the next 10 hours, I worked, ate, hit the gym and had a few drinks.  At 1am, I jumped into a cab for the 15 minute ride to the airport. 

At the airport, I enjoyed a long conversation with a young man who had just finished his shift with Ethiopian Airlines.  We discussed the wonderful people and places that Ethiopia has to offer along with interesting dialogue about the complex problems still facing this developing country.  Shout out to Demelash Hordofa and welcome to the blog.  (Note to our regular readers - I left my camera in Ethiopia and didn't think to use my phone so no photo of Demelash or other sites along the way). 

At 3:45am, I boarded the plane for a three hour flight to Cairo. With a close eye on the weather in the States, I boarded with fingers crossed that upon landing my connecting flight would still be departing for NYC.  The flight was uneventful and we landed just after 7am in Cairo.  The screen showed the 10:35am flight to NYC departing as scheduled.  A sigh of relief.  I grabbed a bite to eat and did some work before departing exactly as scheduled. 

In trying to make this interruption of our travel fantasy into a positive experience, I have been focusing on the true gift that I have received from living this dream.  Spending everyday with Kathy, Mabret and Roman under such intense circumstances where each day brings unique emotions and calls for heightened senses has forced my mind away from the ordinary stress of life and allowed me to connect with them on new levels.  Moreover, we have daily reminders of how different life is for many folks around the globe and how fortunate we are to have one another and such good friends and family.  

Back in Ethiopia, the two finalists on House Hunters Awassa are struggling to win Kathy over as plumbing fixtures need installed and clean-up must be completed.  Kathy has begun the search for furniture as we target Sunday January 12th for moving the kids to Awassa.  Kathy also interviewed and hired a nanny.   Meanwhile, Katie is working hard to maximize the time for school work before we head to India as India will return us to frequent moves and many long travel days.

It is 3:45pm on the east coast and 11:45pm in Awassa.  I have landed at JFK Airport.  

A quick trip through passport control as JFK has the new self-service kiosks for U.S. citizens - very cool and fast.  You simply scan your passport, answer a few yes/no questions on the screen and the machine then takes your photo.  A receipt with your picture and passport information prints out and you simply hand it to the officer as you leave the area.  

I jumped on the AirTran to the LIRR into Penn Station.  Unfortunately, I encountered my first delay of this marathon because Amtrak seems unable to unfreeze the doors on their trains. 

It is now 7:03pm on the east coast and 3:03am on Saturday morning in Awassa.  My train is just leaving Penn Station. With a little luck, I will be in Philly by 9pm.

Since arriving in NYC, I have received many texts, emails and calls from folks who knew that I was headed back checking to make sure that I arrived safely.  Thanks to all for lifting my spirits.

To Kathy, Roman, Mabret and Katie, I miss you guys but don't skip a beat while I am away.  Keep up the adventure and I will be back in a flash.

Throwback Saturday.  A pic from just after landing in Cape Town.  I cannot believe how much more mature Mabret and Roman look now as compared to November 2.

Peace Out. 

Education In The Village

We have been quiet for a few days but not because we were relaxing and enjoying some down time around the holidays. Quite to the contrary, we were busy investigating/visiting the local school near the village.  In addition to gathering intelligence so that we may brainstorm ways to assist the children of Dongora Morocho, we have also been investigating the options for bringing Endris, Shemelese and Yenu to Awassa and enrolling them in a private school.

Seeing the local school and speaking with the school director and teachers gave us much information but also left us frustrated for the people of this village.  As you know from reading this blog, life in the village comes with enormous challenges and is difficult.  Water and food are scarce and most families are without any money.  Therefore, progress for this village and the people who reside here must come from the young generations improving their educational and economic status and communicating with government and nongovernment institutions to build an infrastructure that works for the people.

The vast majority of people in Ethiopia speak either the national language, Amharic, English or both languages. While there are many different languages/dialects spoken in the rural areas, once a person ventures into the developed areas of the country they must speak Amharic and English to thrive.  In fact, the government approved curriculum which must be taught in all schools, public or private, is administered in English.  The standard text books given to the schools are written in English.  In order to attend a university in Ethiopia, a student must pass a lengthy standardized test which is offered after completion of the 10th grade.   The university entrance exam is only offered in English. 

The people of Mabret's village speak Sidamo which is a local dialect common only in this relatively small region.  After traveling outside of the Sidamo Region, it is hard work to find people who are fluent in Sidamo.  As a practical matter, should a young adult leave the village and seek employment in an urban area such as Awassa or Addis, finding a job would be nearly impossible because of the language and cultural barriers.  (More on the cultural barriers later in this post). 

One of the first things that we learned upon arriving in the village 10 days ago is that Endris, Shemelese and Yenu speak only Sidamo. Hagirso, our translator and friend, informed us that they understand little to no Amharic or English that is spoken to them.  The central focus of our visit to the school was to seek answers regarding how Endris 17, Shemelese 14 and Yenu 12 lack even the most basic English and Ahmaric skills when the national curriculum is offered in English, and Amharic is a mandatory subject for all students beginning in grade 1.  Of course, we also were anxious to view the school facilities in such a remote area. 

The students were excited to see the arrival of visitors.

We were fortunate to have an opportunity to meet with the director and other staff at the school and we appreciate their time and the work that they are doing.  

The facilities are primitive with at least one of the buildings unsafe for use.  

However, the director reports that the number one obstacle is a lack of water.  There is no well or tap in the immediate area of the school.  As it is very hot most of the year, this requires the school day to be limited to 4 hours and they must finish by noon.  In addition, most of the children lack proper nutrition.  

While the staff did their best to talk with us in English, it became clear that the English skills of the staff were limited.  Hagirso translated for us and reported that their Amharic skills were also lacking.  As a result, the students appear to be taught mostly in Sidamo.  However, the textbooks that we reviewed are all in English as they are provided by the government and, therefore, comply with the national requirements.  It is hard to imagine that the books available are able to be utilized by teachers or students.  

While there are many needs, one glaring necessity is basic "learn to read books".  The textbooks provided in English are far too advanced to allow a child to learn letter sounds and short words.  Of course, without teachers who speak English and Amharic fluently, the educational gap between children from this and other rural areas and those from urban settings will continue.  While we have begun to discuss possible long term projects to assist the children of Dongora Morocho, our focus also turned to a short term goal - assisting Endris, Shemelese and Yenu in furthering their education and life experience.

Prior to our visit to the local school, we had already begun to discuss the possibility of helping the 3 kids temporarily relocate to Awassa and enrolling them in a private school.  Awassa is home to several very good institutions. This move would require an apartment for the kids along with a full-time nanny to assist with cooking and other household chores.  Moreover, we needed to identify a school willing to take on the huge task of trying to teach these kids both English and Amharic while also communicating the substantive material in other core subjects.  

But first, we had a meeting with Mabret's Ethiopian grandmother, Kayet, and uncle, Tariku.  Through Hagirso, we expressed our respect for their village and the hard work that they do to raise and support the family.  We also explained that we do not want to remove the kids from the village or family but hope to empower them to assist in new ways to support the family.  Before we had the first portion of the message delivered, they were expressing their gratitude toward us and their support for the idea.  They were direct and thoughtful in reminding us that they do not expect or ask for anything from us except what we have already done which is to love and support Mabret.  These are such inherently good and selfless people in such unimaginably difficult circumstances. 

We requested permission to take Endris, Shemelese and Yenu to Awassa for a few days to visit with Roman and Mabret and see how they cope with life outside of the village.  We also wanted to take the kids to one of the private schools that we had visited and identified as the best choice should we be able to pull this together.  Both the kids and the family were excited by the opportunity.  We had no idea how this would go.  These kids have never been beyond their village.  They have never used indoor plumbing or any other basic comforts including electricity.  We were about to experience reality television without the cameras or crafty editing.

As if the contrast between Awassa and Dongora Morocho isn't enough, we are currently staying in a hotel rather than a hostel or lodge setting where we have spent the majority of our trip.  We are happy and proud to report that they did a remarkable job.  With strong support from Mabret and Roman, they adjusted swiftly and we had no major problems.  Although we kept the camera away, Mabret and Roman did teach Endris and Shemelese indoor plumbing 101.  Kathy and Katie assumed the same responsibilities for instructing Yenu. 

Welcome to Awassa.

After purchasing a bathing suit for Yenu and grabbing Mabret's extras for the boys, we gave the swimming pool a shot.  After watching Roman and Mabret cannonball into the water, Endris, Shemelese and Yenu followed them in.  Katie and Dad were ready to jump in assuming a problem was coming, however, these kids went into a unique Ethiopian stroke that somehow kept them afloat.  

They seemed at home with a mattress and flat screen before bed.  I guess it is pretty easy to adapt to that comfort. 

The hotel has an adjacent soccer field where there is a universal language.

After visiting three private schools in Awassa, we settled on the BNB Learning Centre as the best fit for the kids.  The school director, Samuel Bekalo, and the elementary principle, Mr. Targesa, are supportive, understanding and seem up to the challenge.  We have met with them several times and they interacted seamlessly with Endris, Shemelese and Yenu when they visited.  The kids will begin classes at the start of the second semester in early February.

Currently, we have identified several apartments that will work for the kids and we are interviewing candidates for the nanny job.  For now, Kathy continues her own private version of "House Hunters Awassa". 

None of this could be accomplished without Hagirso's assistance which we truly appreciate.  We hope to move the kids up to Awassa the week of January 12th so they can start tutoring sessions at the school and get acclimated to their new surroundings.  We do not leave Ethiopia until January 16th and will stay in Awassa until the last possible moment before heading to Addis and a flight to India.  When we depart, Hagirso will assume the day to day responsibilities of making certain that things run smoothly while communicating with us via email and phone.