Bulungula

The drive to Bulungula from Cintsa is approximately five and a half hours.  This is do in large part to the remote location of Bulungula which can only be accessed via roads which are bumpy and have many holes and trenches.  Once you reach the parking area, there is a short hike to the lodge.

Almost 3 hours of this.

On Sunday, we discussed the possibility of changing course and skipping the two night stay that was planned at Bulungula.  We had read about the arduous drive into the village and wondered aloud whether it was going to be worth it. We discussed the many kilometers that we have traveled already and those that remain.  We then returned to Bulungula.com and once again read the descriptions which had led Kathy to book the adventure in the first place.  We reminded ourselves that this is what the trip is all about and we made the call to venture onward.  Thank goodness that we did because a great loss it would have been to bypass a place that all should experience. 

Homes within the village are pictured below.

This place is incredible.  In the heart of a village that has been poverty stricken for too many generations to count, in a place that is so far removed from developed areas that it is hard to imagine how progress will be made, and at the end of roads that would appear impassable at first glance is...Bulungula.  It is a testament to the human spirit from both the perspective of the person who had the vision to imagine it (his name is Dave Martin) as well as those who make it a reality on a daily basis.

The outside and inside of the lodge is pictured below.

 

Bulungula lies in the Nqileni Village just south of Coffee Bay and North of East London.  This Xhosa Village sits on land that is as magnificent as any that I have walked.  The views of the coast along the Indian Ocean from the hills of this village can only be described by simply admiring the pictures that appear below.  It is beyond words. However, the village is remote and the people have been poor forever.  The roads that lead into Bulungula can be conquered by a small car like Bentley but only with great care and focus.  As Mabret and Roman said, "the roads look like the moon".  The juxtaposition that is the struggle of the local villagers in a place of such natural beauty led a forward thinking man to have the vision to see a "resort" which could be used to help the people to help themselves.  From that vision began Bulungula.  We encourage you to read more online about Dave Martin, the founder of Bulungula.  He is an inspiring individual.  

Photos of the landscape.

Bulungula targets the backpacker and independent tourism market.  The initial thinking was that by attracting folks looking for a good deal that the gap between those living here and those visiting would not appear so vast.  Moreover, Bulungula runs entirely on solar power which appeals to backpackers and other environmentally conscious travelers.  The accommodations that we stayed in are the same structures as the homes in the village.  We stayed in a lovely hut that  Roman and Mabret have labeled one of their favorite rooms thus far.  The colors and paintings that adorn each structure bring life to the resort.  Trust me, the Whale Coast Hotel, the Fernery and the cottage at the Addo Elephant Back Safari were lovely but some how lacked the special charm that we all felt at Bulungula.  The experience is about assimilation from both perspectives. The guests immediately feel welcomed and the locals do not feel that outsiders are invading their village.

Our hut is shown below.

As we checked-in and Lindile showed us our hut, he informed us that security is not an issue in the lodge area or anywhere in the village.  We were told that we can leave any money and valuables in unlocked rooms or in the common lodge without worry.  This seemed far fetched for travelers who have every important piece of paper including money and passports connected to them at all times not to mention the electronics which have the school work and are our sole means of communication to make future bookings and communicate with those back home.  Within one day of arriving, we were leaving valuables in our unlocked hut and leaving the electronics to charge in the lodge while hiking or hanging at the beach.  This community as a whole clearly understands the importance of the new found tourism business which seeks to move all those whose live here forward. 

While you are encouraged to just let the days unfold and not over plan your stay, there are a variety of activities which are owned and run by people from this Xhosa Village.  They have developed ideas from their own skill sets into small businesses and become entrepreneurs.  All of the money goes directly into the hands of the local business people who make these activities happen.  As detailed on one of the information sheets posted in the Lodge, tourism is new to the local population. There has been no formal training to provide these services. This is part of the charm as both the language and cultural divide require these first generation business owners to learn as they work.  It also requires the visitors to take it as it comes because activities do not always unfold as you may have envisioned.

The activity board.

In addition to the tourism businesses which have been established, this surge of energy and intellect into the community has led to the establishment of the Bulungula Incubator which is a non-profit organization that focuses on developing schools, health care services and other social services in the community.

We arrived on Monday in the late afternoon after conquering the roads and the short hike to the lodge.  

We were immediately intrigued by the "rocket showers" which run by pouring paraffin over a bit of toilet paper and lighting up.  The resulting shower is tremendous. 

A little tough to see but the rocket shower is below.

In addition to learning how to light the rocket shower, we read the various instruction sheets posted in the Eco-friendly bathrooms.  The boys got a big kick out of these.  

We explored the activity sheets on the board and decided that fishing would be a fun activity for Tuesday morning. 

The beauty of the beach beckoned for a late afternoon stroll and exploration by our young adventurers. 

Finally, we had an incredible meal and good conversation with fellow travelers.  

After knocking out the Tuesday skool work and eating breakfast, Dad, Roman and Mabret went fishing with some other travelers and Pat.  Pat is a 23 year old who has established his own fishing tours/lessons business.  There were seven of us going with him.  Pat handled all the logistics and organization seamlessly which is not an easy task when talking 2 children and 5 adults.  First, we walked to the beach and onto a huge jetty in search of bait.  Pat taught us how to find and remove various shell fish from the rocks and open them for bait.  While Pat didn't speak much English, he found ways to communicate and teach the boys how to find their bait. Next we rigged up the lines and set out to fish.  Pat hustled from one fisherman to the next providing suggestions through hand gestures and help when needed.  While we returned empty handed, there is no better way to spend a morning than standing on some rocks looking into the Indian Ocean with your two sons. 

In the mid-afternoon we decided to walk to the pancake restaurant in the village.  However, we learned that the Ilanga Restaurant is not open on Mondays.  A quick phone call from Lindlie (the lodge manager) to the owner of Ilanga and she agreed to open just for us.  The restaurant is approximately one mile from the lodge up and down some rolling hills.  We were fortunate to have one of the dogs, Kilo, who resides in the lodge lead us there as street signs do not exist here.  Once again, a void in our hearts filled.  We also received guidance from a villager who we met.

Thanks, friends. 

We were welcomed into the restaurant and we sipped tea while waiting for the main course.  Roman and Mabret ordered chocolate pancakes and we ordered banana caramel.  The pancakes arrived and were light as air and as tasty as any pancakes that we have ever eaten.  Roman, a pancake connoisseur, declared them the best that he has ever eaten.  The entire meal tallied 120 Rand which is approximately $12USD.  It certainly would have been 3 times that at Denny's.  Kilo waited patiently and led us back.  

After returning to the lodge, we laid around and read together.  Mabret, Roman and Dad are into Game Changer by Mike Lupica.  Roman and Mabret were falling asleep before dinner ended (Roman actually was asleep).  A full day for the crew.

Wednesday began with a bartering session between Roman and Dad.  Candy for multiplication tables.  Dad: "One piece of candy for each table that you nail."  Roman: "Can I have 9 pieces because there are 9 problems for each number."  Dad: "No!"  

Mabret wrote a wonderful essay detailing what he likes about Bulungula. He then read it aloud for us.  The travel is definitely removing inhibition.

We then took a long walk on the beach, explored some sand dunes and had a small picnic.

Upon returning, Roman and Mabret met two children from the village. Their names are Onke and Seko and they are the same age as the boys.  For the next 5 hours, the 4 children played together with no difficulty even though the was an enormous language barrier.  We ordered grilled cheese for the kids and after some coaxing were able to convince Seko and Onke to eat.  The community lives by a very strict no begging policy because the village leaders believe that is the best way to build upon what is happening here.  Clearly, Seko and Onke were concerned that this was considered begging.  We explained through the language barrier that they did not ask for food and because they are friends of Roman and Mabret that we are all friends.  Our experience here tells us that the policy is necessary for progress as it encourages unity among the visitors and locals by creating as much equality as possible.  In addition, this community takes great pride in what has transpired already and believes that it can lift itself from poverty.

Wednesday finished with another scrumptious meal prepared by the staff at Bulungula. This evening's meal was chicken curry and vegetable curry for the vegetarians in the house. 

We rose early this morning (Thursday) and departed at 8am. The drive out along the unpaved roads described above was 2 hours and 15 minutes.  We had a rudimentary map with which to navigate.  Mabret is blessed with an incredible memory for any place or road that he has traveled. He watches carefully and seems to possess near photographic recollections.  Kathy has always been known in our family as "Map Girl".  Between the two of them, we had little difficulty conquering a tough drive. 

We are safely settled in Kokstad, South Africa.

Back on the grid so expect daily postings again.  Talk to you all tomorrow.